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Friday, September 18 Trinidad: Grounds at the Asa Wright Nature Centre (AWNC) Torrential rains fell during the night. Well before dawn the hollow hooting of a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl announced the start of a new day. This sound, the signature acoustical accompaniment to brightening skies each day, was our natural alarm clock while we were at AWNC. Soon the owl would be joined by a chorus of Great Antshrike, Barred Antshrike, House Wren, Piratic Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Mockingbird, Yellow Oriole, and myriad other species. Today's dawn brought clearing skies followed by fog, an uncommon phenomenon in the Arima Valley, and then more torrential rain. The heavy fog sat low over the valley all day, affording excellent conditions for glare-free photography. Martyn was first on the veranda each day, setting up the scope and making sure that the tray feeders were properly stocked with fresh fruit and covered with hardware cloth to prevent Crested Oropendolas from stealing entire fruits. One by one the participants gathered on the veranda to watch the flurry of species that makes the first morning at AWNC so spectacular and to imbibe freshly brewed locally grown coffee or tea. New species came fast and furious, including superb scope views of perched Double-toothed Kite, Bat Falcon, Scaled Pigeon, a preening pair of Orange-winged Parrots, Channel-billed Toucans, and Fork-tailed Flycatchers. Other species easily viewed from the veranda included Gray-fronted Dove scarfing up scraps fallen from the feeders, distant screeching flocks of Lilac-tailed Parrotlet, rocketing White-collared Swifts, all of the expected hummingbird species (White-necked Jacobin, Little Hermit, Green Hermit, Tufted Coquette, White-chested Emerald, and Copper-rumped Hummingbird), White-tailed Trogon, Blue-crowned Motmot, Tropical Kingbird, and the ubiquitous tanagers (White-lined, Blue-gray, Palm, and Turquoise). A Trinidad Euphonia called periodically but remained a 'heard only' for the trip despite our finding it in several different locales. A trema tree just outside the veranda was full of small berries and insects on which fed Forest Elaenia, Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Blue Dacnis, Purple Honeycreeper, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Green Honeycreeper, Grayish Saltator, and Violaceous Euphonia. The excitement certainly sent plenty of adrenalin into the system, as shouts from one end of the veranda to the other kept the birders in constant motion. Eventually we broke for breakfast, which included custom-made omelettes along with cereal and milk, fresh watermelon, and saltfish with herbs and vegetables and a tiny bit ("slight hot") of pepper sauce. After breakfast Martyn presented the group with a splendid introductory talk that covered all bases, after which we returned to the veranda to continue to enjoy the avian spectacle. At midmorning we engaged in a morning hike down the Discovery Trail from the main house, finding more new species and learning the basics of tropical botany. We covered perhaps a quarter of a mile on this sedate walk, all the way to the Bellbird lek. This being September, the Bellbirds were silent, as they were in molt. On our trail walks today our best sightings included Plumbeous Kite (a brief glimpse overhead), White Hawk, Common Black-Hawk, a probable Ornate Hawk-Eagle, a Common Potoo asleep on a dead branch, Violaceous Trogon, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Euler's Flycatcher, White-bearded Manakin, Golden-headed Manakin, Golden-fronted Greenlet, Rufous-breasted Wren, and American Redstart. In the heard-only category were Little Tinamou, Black-faced Antthrush, and Tropical Parula, constant but unseen companions in the forest. Butterfly species that we identified included Postman, Cattle Heart, Sweet Oil, and Giant Sulfur. Our first-day lunch consisted of steamed vegetables, roast chicken with local spices, savory rice with local herbs, and homemade cake. After allowing an hour for a siesta, which was especially welcomed by the late arrivals from last night, we headed to the Oilbird cave with resident naturalist Harold Diaz serving as our local guide. The recent rains had made the trail a bit muddy and quite slippery in some areas, especially where the prevalent mineral, micaceous schist, was exposed. All participants successfully negotiated the trail to and from Guacharo (Oilbird) Gorge. Along the way we viewed many species of birds including a close male Violaceous Trogon, and everyone was thrilled to see several eye-popping Blue Morpho butterflies. Everyone also had superb views of the Oilbirds in their dim, cavelike grotto. We returned to the ever popular veranda thrilled at having seen what was for everyone not only a new species but also a new genus and a new family of bird. After enjoying the 4pm tea and biscuits, we continued our afternoon birding from the veranda. We continued to have mouthwatering views of Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Piratic Flycatcher, male and female Blue Dacnis, and had a really lovely view through the scope of more Orange-winged Parrots. During the lull before dinner, while enjoying our daily rum punch, we conducted our first tally and reviewed our plans for tomorrow. For dinner we had split-pea soup, a shredded garden salad, pigeon peas, broiled kingfish, rice with savory herbs, and coconut gel with watermelon garnish. Number of species seen: 70; new for trip: 70; running total: 70.
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